Seasonal Delicacies at L’AbenFant in Dijon
By: Giuliana Keeth
This November, I visited Dijon, France. About 180 miles southeast of Paris, the city seems like a quaint village compared to the French capital’s cosmic size. For lunch, we stopped by a popular restaurant called L’AbenFant. This restaurant specializes in vegetarian cuisine and changes its menu every day, so we were in for a real delicious treat.
Our appetizer was an assortment of steamed carrots and broccoli topped with a tangy hummus sauce and drizzled in tzatziki. This was no ordinary hummus though; it was surprisingly refreshing and even had a slightly spicy kick in the end! The innovative nature of this dish didn’t stop with that. Sprinkled amongst the carrots were purple basil leaves, a variety of basil which I had never tasted before. It’s similar to regular basil, but I find its aroma to be slightly fruitier, leaving the palate with a delicate, sweet aftertaste.
In my opinion, the main dish was the star of the show at L’AbenFant. It was a complete play on textures: the top layer was a crême fraiche infused with chestnuts, then lying right underneath it were two poached eggs waiting to explode with golden goodness, and finally, a mild, soothing purée made of fresh, grilled squash hid at the very bottom of the dish. On the left-hand side, the chef had gently laid out one portion of the grilled squash whole, which was drenched in another tangy, yet smoky cream. I had to pace myself when eating this dish—it was simply too delicious!
To top off this amazing journey of texture and taste, our dessert was a dense cake made with fresh hazelnuts, accompanied by a quenelle of the same crême fraiche found in the main dish. Each cake was also topped with roasted chestnuts and mandarin orange segments. At the end of our three-course lunch, the chef informed us that this menu only used ingredients that were currently in season in France.
In the United States, it can be difficult to find a restaurant that uses a complete seasonal menu, unless you are frequenting a high-end or Michelin-renowned place. Yet, there is a certain beauty to seasonal menus that should be incorporated more frequently back home. Using crops that are at the peak of their ripeness and taste gives dishes a flavor that could never be recreated by importing the same product from overseas. In addition, diners will feel a connection with their local markets and specialties by being exposed to them on a more regular basis. I would highly recommend that even if you don’t find a seasonal restaurant nearby, you should try making your own seasonal recipes. Who knows? You could accidentally create your first signature dish.