★★★| Vegetarian | Ithaca Commons | $60-70

Written by Garrett Emmons

Edited by Effat Rahman

Moosewood Restaurant is an Ithaca institution. Established in 1973, Moosewood became known for its plant-forward and farm-to-table fare. Thanks to a successful series of cookbooks, the Moosewood name spread throughout the country, contributing to the rise of vegetarianism in the 1970s and making homemade vegetarian cuisine more accessible. Since then, several of its cookbooks have won James Beard Awards, and the restaurant itself was named one of America's Classics.

In 2022, Moosewood came under new ownership: Dana Wilcox, whose mother was one of the original members of the Moosewood collective. The restaurant underwent a renovation and gained a renewed focus in local, vegetarian-centric cuisine.

Food & Drinks (7/10)

When Moosewood first established itself, vegetarian cuisine was a far cry from the variety and popularity that it sees today. These days, vegetarians, or just those looking for more meatless meals, have many more options when it comes to quality food. Moosewood’s current menu attempts to hold its own while honoring the restaurant’s tradition of supporting local farmers and producers.

For appetizers, we ordered the Spring Pea Hummus ($9), Creamy Tomato Soup ($6), and Dinosaur Kale Salad ($12).We also ordered four entrees; the Moroccan Chickpea Stew ($18), Spicy Coconut Curry ($19), Black Bean Burger ($18), and Lasagna ($25). Moosewood is not entirely vegetarian; the special of the day, which we did not order, was fish.

The spring pea hummus, which came with warm, toasted pita bread, was bright, herbaceous, and earthy—a great choice even for those who don’t typically love hummus. While the menu listed beet hummus, our waiter informed us that it was now being made with spring peas, reflecting Moosewood’s fidelity to seasonal cooking. The tomato soup was creamy and rich. The kale salad was well-made, showcasing flavorful and tender kale with a tasty dressing, but could get repetitive if eaten as an entree, and, for a vegetarian-focused restaurant, we felt the salads could be more creative and standalone.

The entrees were met with mixed reactions. Our unanimous favorite was the lasagna, which featured four different cheeses and was thoughtfully crafted. It had the same heartiness one would expect of a bolognese-stuffed lasagna. We also enjoyed the black bean burger. While the patty was slightly mushy—though, really, what black bean burger isn’t?—the black garlic aioli and the pickled red onion provided an excellent umami and acidity contrast. The accompanying potatoes were crispy and well-seasoned, a standout. The chickpea stew had a more varied taste, at times quite sweet and other times rather sour, but if you’re looking for a warm, nutritious stew with large pieces of vegetables and couscous, this is a solid option. Finally, the coconut curry was the dish we were least impressed by. Despite being branded as “spicy,” we could detect only a sparse amount of spice and the overall flavor was rather subdued. Inoffensive, but not worth getting.

We did not try any of the drinks this visit, but the drink menu is tempting. It features cocktails crafted from local spirits, beers from upstate breweries, and wines from wineries right in the Finger Lakes. General Manager Aron Kelly proudly told us he would put their wines against competition from anywhere in the world—I believed him.

Service (9/10)

Aron was also our waiter that evening. Although there was a slight wait after being seated, his humor and passion quickly made up for it. He explained the menu thoughtfully, including several modifications, and was enthusiastic about Moosewood’s commitment to farm-to-table food. He promised us that he had worked in many restaurants that made similar statements, but only Moosewood was the real deal.

Ambiance (10/10)

In short, the ambiance of Moosewoods was fantastic. Located in the historical Dewitt Mall, it's clear that the recent renovations to the restaurant were more than worthwhile. The interior was both calm and attractive, presenting warm woods, soft lighting, nature-oriented artwork, and not-too-loud tunes. A chalkboard listing the local purveyors that Moosewoods works with is a lovely touch. There is an outdoor patio and a little shop inside where you can purchase Moosewood’s many cookbooks as well as olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and other culinary products. Sitting inside Moosewood, the space feels clean and contemporary while still imbuing the unmistakable sense that it’s been there for a long time.

Value (8/10)

Food prices certainly aren’t at all-time lows, and Moosewood is no exception. A black bean burger for almost twenty dollars is a little tough to accept, but the going rate is the going rate. Having said that, all the portions were fair. The hummus appetizer was enough to share among five people. The soup and salad were filling and substantial. And no one walked away from their entree still feeling snackish. We were all too full for dessert.

Overall Score (34/40)

Vegetarian restaurants have a tricky task of impressing vegetarians who are used to vegetable-centric fare while also persuading meat eaters who might see vegetables as healthy sides and nothing more. Moosewood does its best to complete this task while also balancing farm-to-table conscientiousness, and succeeds mostly. The best item was the spring pea hummus, something none of us had ever had before, while our least favorite was the coconut curry, a foreign dish that we’ve had more exciting versions of elsewhere. Next time you’re at Moosewood, look for menu items that display seasonal ingredients in ways that you aren’t as familiar with, and you won’t be disappointed. Beyond the food, Moosewood is worth stopping by for the inviting ambiance, passionate staff, and the opportunity to partake in some Ithaca history.